The creative power of conscious movement: ICM (Intentional Camera Movement)

From WhiteWall expert Katharina Wergen

ICM (Intentional Camera Movement) is a fascinating technique in which the photographer deliberately moves the camera during the exposure to create interesting blurs and abstract effects. Instead of producing sharp, static images, the photographer uses motion to bring dynamics and artistic freedom into the photo. In this article, we’ll show you how to creatively capture different subjects using ICM and what techniques are required.

What is ICM and why use it?

The exact origin is unclear – much like the images themselves. There’s a hint of pictorialism in it. That was a photographic art form of the late 19th century, aiming to capture soft contours to imitate the style of oil paintings. On the other hand, most ICM subjects are very abstract and full of "impressionistic freedom." In fact, ICM brings together various creative processes made possible by modern camera technology. What makes it special is the wide range of subjects and outcomes, offering photographers a diverse array of unique visual possibilities. The result is often an image that looks particularly striking when printed on canvas.

What at first glance may look like a "blurry photo" is actually the result of a technically precise, creatively expressive, yet not lawless art form that suits the subject matter.

The basics of controlled motion blur

Unlike classical genres like portrait, landscape, or wildlife photography, ICM doesn’t define what you photograph – not even how. The only rule all ICM shots share is that the exposure is triggered during motion. There are no limits to direction or the type of movement you perform. What matters is choosing a shutter speed that fits both the subject’s and your own movement – and ensuring that focus tracking is turned off.

Shifting along the x- and y-axis

The most suitable technique for beginners is motion along the axes. For this, choose a subject and move the camera in the direction that the subject itself moves.

Example 1: Trees

Trees are ideal for getting started with the technique. Whether it’s a solitary deciduous tree among spruces or a path winding through a group of trees – the movement direction is the same.

• Mount your camera on a tripod. You can do it handheld, but a tripod helps extend straight lines.

• Use a low ISO setting to avoid image noise.

• Use the same aperture you would normally use for the subject, or switch to aperture priority.

• The exposure time depends on your movement. The slower or longer you pan, the longer the exposure should be. Vertical tree movements work well between 1/4 and 1/15 of a second.

Start the exposure and move the camera slowly and evenly in a vertical direction, following the natural growth of the trees. The result is an abstract composition with rich colors. For this kind of shot, ultraHD acrylic glass is ideal, as it emphasizes high-contrast images.

Beispiel 2: Sailboat

Lakes already offer plenty of visual variety – reflections, sunsets, wide-open landscapes. Boats, especially sailboats, are a popular and frequent sight, and perfect ICM subjects. Two key elements can make an ICM sailboat photo especially intriguing:

• Use a tripod to keep the water horizon straight.

• Depending on the sun’s angle, you can include lens flares and reflections or reduce them using a polarizing filter.

• Since the subject is farther away, use a narrower aperture like f/5.6 or switch to aperture priority.

• Pan the camera for a longer time – about 1/5 second following the boat’s motion and beyond, or a shorter time like 1/15 second moving against its direction.

This example requires more practice because the subject itself is moving, and the ideal shutter speed depends heavily on the distance to the object. A good way to practice horizontal movement is with a sunset, helping you develop a sense for smooth panning.

Example 3: Public squares

Any location, subject, or time is suitable for ICM. You're essentially doing a long exposure while moving – or letting the camera move. In urban settings with the right background, this can create images resembling oil paintings.

• Shoot handheld.

• Adjust ISO based on ambient light.

• Similar to street photography, use an aperture that gives good depth of field, like f/5.6.

• To blur faces but keep outlines recognizable, a shutter speed of 1/30 to 1/15 second works well.

• Move the camera slightly from right to left, up and down, or even back and forth, following the scene’s motion, like a crowd. Stick to one type of movement to preserve clear contours.

Whether in color or monochrome, a surreal scene with intentional motion blur captures viewers’ attention. It's a creative way to portray anonymous crowds in front of well-known buildings – an artistic alternative to traditional long exposure.

Example 4: Blossoms

Creative blur effects can also be created with circular motion. Flower blossoms are an ideal starting point for this.

• Position yourself in front of the blossom and focus on its center.

• Set aperture and ISO as you would for a regular image.

• Again, exposure time depends on the speed of your movement.

• Focus on the blossom center and start the exposure. While doing so, rotate the camera in a smooth circle.

The wider your circular movement, the larger the blurred area appears. A tighter rotation resembles a double exposure, once again evoking the feel of an oil painting. Canvas is the most fitting medium for showcasing this effect thanks to its texture.

Example 5: Abstract patterns

Once you've experimented with horizontal, vertical, handheld, tripod-based, and rotational motion, there’s one more to try: diagonal movement. The biggest challenge here is choosing the right subject. As with a crowded public square or a large staircase, try capturing interesting patterns, color compositions, or textures this way.

• Choose an aperture that lets enough light hit the sensor.

• Use an exposure time that allows a short movement – for example, mosaic tiles nearby need less time than a stained glass window in a cathedral.

• During the exposure, move the camera diagonally to transform the pattern into abstract art.

With windows, you can also incorporate backlighting. If natural patterns or textures allow for a prismatic effect, this is a great opportunity to use angles, close-ups, or macro photography to create something unique.

Z-axis movement

More movement? Absolutely! Another ICM method involves shifting the camera forward or backward during the exposure. This works especially well with subjects that have visual depth or perspective, creating a tunnel effect. If you walk toward a stone archway while photographing it, the edge simply blurs. But if there are two objects at varying distances, it creates a visual pull effect.

A helpful accessory for this is a tripod-mounted rail that allows smooth and controlled forward/backward movement without camera shake.

Since ICM doesn’t follow strict rules – only subjects and scenes that lend themselves to the effect – you’re free to express your creativity through endless experimentation. Exposure time, speed, and direction can always be adjusted. What’s "right" depends on your experience and personal impression.

Moving camera parts: Zoomburst

A different kind of effect is the zoomburst. Here, the camera stays in place while you rotate the zoom ring during the exposure. The result is similar to moving the camera forward but affects the image center and light differently.

• Mount your camera on a tripod.

• Zoom in or out from your final composition – for example, from wide-angle to telephoto for a landscape, or vice versa.

• Shutter speed can be 2 seconds or more – up to 30 seconds for night shots.

• Adjust the aperture to match the shutter speed.

• Focus, then switch to manual focus to prevent refocusing.

• Press the shutter and simultaneously begin turning the zoom ring. If you rotate evenly until the end, the result will be more abstract. If you stop zooming during the last third (or half, in night scenes), the subject will appear more defined.

This effect is exciting and the results are surprising and artistic. Popular subjects for zoombursts include illuminated skylines or looking up at the sky through trees.

Conclusion: A blurry image with strong impact

To create an ICM photo, all you need is a camera, a lens, and maybe a tripod. No complex editing, expensive gear, or special conditions are required. Just time and a willingness to experiment. Writing a guide is arguably harder than simply trying it yourself. Many factors depend on the season, light, and subject. The ideal shutter speed or motion can’t be prescribed. Aside from your own expectations, there are no rules – only your creativity and a method that honors the origins of photography.